As work progresses I now find myself at the stage where I have to resolve a lot of the problems I have encountered along the way and ignored because there was easier stuff to do. It’s probably not the best way to go about something like this because right now all I can see is problems.
The first one is the front wheel. Actually it’s the first, second third and fourth. The Lexmoto wheel has a very small disc on it – it was meant for a 125 with a top speed of about 60 at best and an all up weight of a bag of spuds. I decided I had to find something more substantial, not made out of Chinesium and with a much bigger disc on it. I have to stick to single disc as the forks only have caliper mounting lugs on one side.
My thoughts are currently turning towards a Yamaha Diversion wheel with one disc removed, the big problem being that I have to find a caliper to mate up to it. That is made rather more difficult than I would like as the mounting holes on the fork lugs are 97mm apart, which limits my choice significantly. I thought a Triumph T300 one would do the trick but that turned out to be 92mm so that got ruled out. I am struggling with it a bit at the moment but will find something that will work together. I guess worst case scenario I can cut one of the lugs off and have it rewelded 5mm from where it is now, I can’t do tig but I know a man that can. I shall decide later, or for the benefit of those reading this, in a few paragraph’s time.
Another issue regards the instruments. Ian found a really smart pair of chrome bodied 65mm diameter clocks which look really nice but the tacho is cable drive and the engine has no drive output for it. You can get Chinese ones these days that take an electronic signal so I will look into that. The alternative is the original tacho and a bicycle style speedo triggered by a magnet on the front wheel.
The biggest headache at the moment though is the rear brake arrangement. The VZ800 rear wheel has a drum brake so it needs to be either cable or rod actuated. The footpegs on the dog are very wide of the frame, they need to be so I can get my legs round the engine. Trying to make it functional but not ugly is proving tricky, I have already started and given up on about 3 or 4 different ideas. I have another one to look at later today that I hope will be more practical. Whatever I do has to be done within budget , which is starting to get rather depleted now.
That brings me on to cables – I think I am going to have to make some. The speedo one would be the worst but if I go the bicycle device route that problem goes away. The Clutch cable will probably have to be made, as will the throttle and choke cable. Although I may take a different approach with the later and rig up some sort of lever down near the carbs. I always think having too many cables flying all over the place spoils the looks of an otherwise well thought out bike.
Anyway, I’m off down the workshop now to see if I can make any progress on anything, I’ll be back next paragraph 🙂
So I had a look at the rear brake first, I had a wonderful idea that didn’t work, turned some steel in to scrap, swore a bit and then had a eureka moment. It struck me that if I made a cable to go from pedal to brake drum I would need to make the bracket that holds the brake pedal support the brake light switch. It would also need to support the outer of the cable and be pretty damn rigid so my boot doesn’t bend it. I found a piece of 3mm thick 25 x 25 angle that looked like it was just the job, by cutting it judiciously and adding an extra bit I could make the thing fulfil it’s purpose quite easily, then all I have to do is a bit of welding and some grinding and filing so it doesn’t look like a piece of old bed frame any more.
I had to make a post for the cable to terminate on and remembered the outboard engine drive shaft I cut iup to make the gear change linkage from – that would do. The end was splined and I thought I could use that as a kind of feature so that’s what I did. I am very pleased with it, it’s remarkable how sometimes even the smallest of parts can give you a real lift when they come out right.
Here’s the whole caboodle assembled with the cut off end of a cable just so I can make sure it all aligns up correctly.
Just got to order the outer cable now and some silver solder so that I can complete the job but at least I know where I am going now and what needs doing, I think it will work really well and look pretty tidy too.
Now all I need to get is some Bowden cable outer ( I already have the inner) and a cable of cable ends and the job’s a good un. The cable will terminate at the brake end with a long length of threaded bar to give me plenty of adjustment. There is already a torsion spring on the brake lever to handle the returning function so I don’t need to add any other springs. Most splendid.
Article provided by David Powell of Boston Bike Bits.